Brewing Water Part 3
Alkalinity
Alkalinity
Today we’re diving into a topic that confuses brewers more than almost anything in water chemistry: alkalinity.
pH VS ALKALINITY
pH and alkalinity are not the same thing. pH is the ratio of acid to alkaline.
Alkalinity is the amount of alkaline that is present. Two completely different things.
Let me make this clearer with a couple of analogies.
CAR AND CARAVAN ANALOGY
Imagine you are towing a caravan.
The car pulling it is acid. The caravan is alkalinity.
If the caravan is light, even a small car can move it.
That is low alkalinity, and a tiny bit of acid shifts the pH easily.
If the caravan is heavy, the car struggles.
That is high alkalinity, and the pH barely moves even with a fair bit of acid.
That is alkalinity, resistance to lowering pH.
MARBLES ANALOGY
Now imagine marbles.
Red marbles are acid. Blue marbles are alkaline.
One red and one blue marble gives you a neutral balance,
I am using pH 7 here simply as a teaching analogy.
But the alkalinity is tiny, add one more red, and the pH shifts dramatically.
Ten red and ten blue, still neutral, but alkalinity is higher,
add one red and the pH only moves a little.
One hundred red and one hundred blue, still neutral, but alkalinity is huge,
add one red marble and the pH barely moves.
pH is the balance. Alkalinity is the amount.
THE THREE DEFINITIONS OF ALKALINITY
Water treatment people use three definitions.
Number one, Alkalinity is the water’s ability to resist a pH change.
Number two, Alkalinity is the water’s ability to neutralise acid,
in other words, how many bases in the water can mop up hydrogen ions.
In brewing, that is almost all bicarbonate.
Number three, Alkalinity is how much acid it takes to push the water down to pH 4.5.
Below that, alkalinity is gone, and pH falls very quickly.
Your water report’s alkalinity number is based on this pH 4.5 test.
pH 4.5 is the standard endpoint for total alkalinity titration.
We will go deeper into that another time.
WHAT ALKALINITY ACTUALLY MEANS FOR BREWERS
Alkalinity is your water’s ability to resist a drop in pH.
It comes from bicarbonate, carbonate, and a tiny bit of dissolved CO₂.
Here is an important detail, in normal drinking water, pH 7 to 9,
over ninety eight percent of the carbonate system is bicarbonate.
So for brewers, alkalinity basically is bicarbonate.
Bicarbonate is the primary buffering system in brewing water.
WHY ALKALINITY MATTERS
High alkalinity raises mash pH, it can make pale beers harsh, dull, or grainy.
Low alkalinity lets mash pH fall easily, great for pale beers,
but it can fall too low in dark beers.
Very low alkalinity, around 0 to 30 ppm, can make beer taste thin or watery.
Moderate to high alkalinity, around 100 to 200 ppm,
helps buffer the acidity of roasted malts in stouts and porters,
and it prevents acrid, burnt flavours.
Pale beers want low alkalinity.
Dark beers want moderate to high alkalinity.
HOW TO ADJUST ALKALINITY
To lower alkalinity
Use lactic acid or phosphoric acid, acidulated malt,
or dilute with RO or distilled water.
Prefer lactic or phosphoric,
they are predictable, repeatable, and easy to calculate.
Why not rely heavily on acidulated malt?
Because its acidity varies between maltsters,
large amounts can add lactic flavour,
and it makes mash pH correction slow and imprecise.
Dilution
Dilution works well when you do not need a huge correction.
If your alkalinity is 100 ppm and you want around 50,
a simple one to one mix of tap water and RO or distilled water
will get you close.
De- alkalisation by boiling
You can also remove alkalinity by boiling. Bring the water to a rolling boil.
You may add a small sprinkle of chalk to speed things up,
but boiling alone will remove some alkalinity.
Boiling drives off CO₂, and once the CO₂ is gone,
the water cannot hold as much bicarbonate.
Calcium and bicarbonate will crash out as chalky solids.
Let it cool, let it settle, and pour off the clear water from the top.
Done properly, this usually leaves you with around 60 to 90 ppm alkalinity.
To raise alkalinity
Use baking soda, it is the easiest and most predictable method.
You can use chalk, but it barely dissolves unless the water is carbonated,
so it is difficult to use correctly.
Slaked lime works too, but it is tricky, it's easy to over correct and can be corrosive.
Most brewers should stick to baking soda.
So in summary:
pH is the balance.
Alkalinity is resistance to lowering that balance.
And bicarbonate is the superstar behind it all.
In the next video, we will look at how alkalinity interacts with hardness,
and how Residual Alkalinity, or RA, predicts mash pH even better.
Every brewer seems to know that one guy who says,
“Mate, you ONLY need this magic number,” or
“This ONE mineral is all that matters.”
Yeah… nah, not even close.
That’s marketing hype mixed with wishful thinking.
Water chemistry is a team sport, not a solo act, and pH
is one of the Most Valuable Players.
From your mash, to the boil, into the fermenter, and all
the way to that final pint, pH is quietly influencing
everything, like a backstage manager that never sleeps.
And sure, you might fluke a good beer without paying
attention to it, but if you want to dial things in, fix
problems, and make beer that tastes intentionally good
instead of accidentally good, pH is your new best mate.
This is Part 2 of my brewing water series, so if you
missed Part 1, it’s worth watching. It’ll make some of the
terms in this video make a lot more sense. And, like
always, I tuck a bit of bonus science at the end for the
curious minds who enjoy a nerdy nightcap. If you
skipped that in Part 1, or haven’t watched it at all, there’s
a link in the description.
Fun Fact - Oxygen means Acid Maker
Alright, before we start throwing numbers around like
we’re filing tax returns, it helps to understand why pH
does what it does and what’s actually going on behind
the scenes.
So let’s kick off with the basics.
What does pH mean?
pH p=Power H=Hydrogen
pH stands for the “Potential of Hydrogen”
More accurately, the "p" is a mathematical notation that
stands for the negative logarithm (base 10) of the
concentration or activity of hydrogen ions ([H⁺]) in a
solution. Remember at School, yep one of those buttons
on your calculator Log Sin Cos.
You might be used to hearing “acid and alkaline” but
since we’ll be talking about alkalinity in another video,
it’s less confusing to use the word "base" or “basic”. So
you have acids and bases.
In simple terms, pH is a scale that tells us how acidic or
basic water is. It’s based on the concentration of
hydrogen ions present, acids gain hydrogen ions and
create hydronium and bases are created by losing
hydrogen ions and creating hydroxide but because
those numbers get incredibly small, we use a logarithmic
scale to make it easier to work with.
A logarithmic scale simply means each 1 step change in
pH represents a tenfold change in acidity. For example,
something with a pH of 5 is ten times more acidic than
something with a pH of 6.
If we look at the pH range from 0 to 14, each step is a
tenfold change, which means the entire range spans a
factor of 100 trillion. That’s an almost unimaginable
difference. If pH 0 were represented by a single 1mm
grain of sand, then pH 14 would be 100 trillion grains,
enough to fill 40 Olympic swimming pools or build a
small beach. If pH 0 was 1 second, then pH 14 would be
over 3 million years. This is why the pH scale uses
logarithms, to compress a truly enormous range into a
simple number.
Why does pH matter in brewing
pH is crucial because it affects almost every stage of brewing:
1. Mash Efficiency
Enzymes like amylase convert starches to sugars
best in a slightly acidic range, around 5.2 to 5.6.
Outside this range, enzyme activity drops, reducing
sugar extraction, efficiency and ultimately affecting
alcohol content.
2. Flavour Development
pH affects the taste of the final beer:
Lower pH can make beer taste sharp or tart.
Higher pH can lead to dull or soapy flavors.
pH also influences hop utilization, too high or too
low can reduce bitterness extraction.
We will dive deep into pH and beer flavours in a
future video.
3. Yeast Health & Fermentation
Yeast prefers a slightly acidic environment. Correct
pH helps yeast ferment efficiently and reduces the
risk of off-flavors or stalled fermentation.
4. Microbial Stability
A lower pH helps inhibit unwanted bacteria,
improving the beer’s shelf life and safety.
5. Clarity & Stability
pH affects protein precipitation and polyphenol
interactions, which influence clarity and haze formation.
How to Measure pH
1. pH Test Paper or Indicator Sticks
These strips change colour depending on the
acidity or alkalinity of your solution. You dip the strip
into your liquid and compare it to a colour chart.
Each colour corresponds to a different pH. Though I
am yet to find any with high accuracy. And with dark
beers that can change the colour of the strip,
accuracy is near impossible.
2. pH Meters
A probe is dipped into the wort or beer, giving a
precise digital reading. Many, if not all serious
brewers who care about their beer use pH meters.
They are used through the whole process from
mash to fermenter. A detailed test equipment video
will be later in this series. A quick tip for those
already using them, calibrate whenever you use
them and make sure the calibration fluid is at room
temperature around 20c or 68F and the same with
the wort sample, doesn't matter if it has ATC
Automatic temperature correction or not, to get
accurate readings it’s what you have to do.
Tip
To some people this might sound odd, but in brewing, as
long as you’re starting with potable water, water that’s
safe to drink, the actual pH of your tap water isn’t a big
deal, it doesn’t matter. In most places it falls somewhere
between 6.5 and 8.5 anyway. Once you add grain, the
mash naturally contains buffers that pull the pH into a
range that's easily tweakable when needed, so the
starting water pH rarely affects anything by itself.
Buffers, that brings us to Alkalinty, that's for the next
video and it is hugely important.
pH tells us the ratio of acid to base, but it doesn’t tell us
how much total acid or base is in the water. That’s
where alkalinity comes in.
In the next video I’ll show exactly why alkalinity matters,
and why water with high alkalinity is much harder to shift
in pH than water with low alkalinity.
Water Chemistry 101
Beer is about 95% water. But here's the crazy part. Most brewers know way more about their hops and grains than their water. And that's a mistake. Because water chemistry isn't just science. It's flavor chemistry. Get it right and your beer sings. Get it wrong and your beer's going to taste like ****.
The minerals in your brewing water can make all the difference between a crisp Pilsner, a malty stout, and a punchy West Coast IPA. This is one of those topics that can feel overwhelming, but stick with me through this series. I'll keep it short, simple, and practical so you can brew your best beer.
What is brewing liquor? When brewers say brewing liquor, we don't mean the booze, the finished beer. We're just talking about our water prepared with the right minerals for brewing.
Tap water varies wildly depending on where you live. Some areas have soft water with very few minerals. Others have hard water packed with minerals like calcium and bicarbonates. By treating our water, we can adjust mash pH into the ideal range. We can enhance malt or hop character, improve yeast health and stability, and really importantly, we can completely change the mouth feel and flavor of a beer.
Now, if you Google brewing water chemistry, it's easy to be overwhelmed with different advice, a jungle of equations, and scary looking spreadsheets. But don't worry, I'm going to walk you through this step by step. By the end, you'll have a process you can use for life. Whether you're brewing in your garage or at a full scale brewery.
Before you change anything, you need to ask yourself why. Why are you doing it? What are you trying to achieve? Because a hazy pale needs a very different water profile to something like a crisp pilsner. Too many brewers just throw in salts and hope for the best. Even when using brewing software or AI tools, even if you don't understand what you're looking at, the answers it's giving you, you're still just guessing and hoping it's right.
So, pick the style you're going to brew, and know your target. Here's a big mistake I see people make all the time. People try to copy regional water profiles, like the famous Burton-on-Trent water, often used for English ales. Sounds authentic, right? But here's the truth. Even centuries ago, those brewers were changing their water. They didn't love what came out of the ground, and they changed their water to make a better beer. So, take inspiration from history, but don't chase their water, chase their flavor. Design your water for the beer style, not the postcode.
Know your starting water. You need to know what you're starting with. What's in your water at home? One way is to pay for a test. You send a sample off to be analyzed and they send you a detailed report back, but quite expensive. It's at least a couple of hundred the last time I looked. Another way is to obtain a water report from your local water authority. They're also self-test kits, but they can be a little inaccurate and again sometimes expensive.
And then there's RO water. RO water is reverse osmosis water. It's highly filtered water and there is next to nothing left in it. There's still a little bit of stuff but not much. The trouble with all these methods though is water can vary from week to week and season to season. For instance, where I live, they can access at least three different dams for my water supply. And while the water authorities monitor and treat it all, it's not always the same. And of course, that just changed that expensive water analysis you paid for.
Even when it comes to RO water, the age or quality of the filters changes over time. If you own a commercial working brewery, you might be able to afford to test and change your filters all the time, but as home brewers, that's just another cost. Keeping diaries of usage by time and liters or gallons can help with knowing when to change them.
What I suggest at the start, if you don't filter, is to use the water authority report averages. It's the closest numbers you're going to get. But still, things like old piping in your neighborhood can throw those numbers out, too. You can get cheap TDS meters. They test for total dissolved solids in your water, and then you can regularly check your water and maybe pick up any unexpected changes. TDS meters can't give you the full details, but it will let you know if something is wrong. We'll discuss test equipment further in another video.
So, starting with your water authority's average numbers gives you the best baseline. If that info isn't online, send them an email. Be clear about what you need. I'll drop a link to a list of what you should ask for in the description. If you don't get the answers you want straight up, ring them, ask them who you need to speak to that will know.
You may have a local brewery, or a homebrew shop, or even a homebrew club that might be able to help you with the numbers. And here's a bonus tip. If you have to, go and ask your local aquarium store or garden center. The good ones know their water profiles inside and out.
So, to wrap this section up: know what you're trying to achieve and know your starting water. That's your foundation.
Before we finish, here's a quick bit of science that will make the next videos a little bit easier to understand. I think most people will know that water is H₂O and its polarity makes it one of nature's best solvents. That just means it's really good at dissolving things. It's why water can pull sugars, proteins, and flavors out of your malt and hops. It's also how it carries the minerals we add to shape our beer's taste and texture.
As a chemical compound, a water molecule contains one oxygen atom and two hydrogen atoms connected by covalent bonds. In chemistry, polar means that a molecule has an uneven distribution of electric charge. One end is slightly positive, the other slightly negative. In water, the oxygen atom carries a partial negative charge and the two hydrogen atoms carry partial positive charges.
So when we add something like calcium chloride, written as CaCl₂, and give it a good mix, the salt dissociates. It breaks apart. Its ionic bonds break and it splits into three ions: one calcium ion, which is positive, and two chloride ions, which are negative. Opposites attract, the water helps them to break apart. And that's why, in a very simplified way, water is so good at dissolving salts.
And that'll help you understand some future videos. That's the chemistry behind the flavor.
Thanks for reading. Grab your pH meter because next time we're getting into the good stuff.
Cheers, and I'll see you then. Keep on brewing.
BLEACH, STAR SAN, AND THE TRUTH ABOUT SANITIZING YOUR HOMEBREW
An Interview with Charlie Talley of Five Star Chemicals
Sanitation can make or break your homebrew. In this interview, Charlie Talley, founder of Five Star Chemicals and inventor of Star San, shares decades of experience, explains how bleach really works, and clears up common myths about sanitizers in brewing.
WHO IS CHARLIE TALLEY?
Charlie has been in the chemical specialty industry since 1968 and worked as a chemist for Penwalt Chemical, a major manufacturer of bleach and chlor-alkali products. He developed the formula that would become Star San in 1971 and introduced it to homebrewers in the early 1990s. He has deep experience with both bleach and modern sanitizers.
BLEACH AS A BREWING SANITIZER
Bleach (sodium hypochlorite) is one of the oldest sanitizers available. The EPA even bases many germ-killing tests on chlorine. Many homebrewers avoid bleach because of bad experiences, but Charlie emphasizes that bleach can be very effective if it is used correctly, especially when it comes to pH.
WHY pH MATTERS WITH BLEACH
Household bleach is usually too alkaline (too high in pH) to kill effectively. Manufacturers add sodium hydroxide to stabilize bleach on the shelf, but that high pH prevents the formation of hypochlorous acid, the compound that does the actual killing. Lowering the pH makes bleach far more effective.
IMPORTANT SAFETY WARNING: BLEACH + VINEGAR
Never mix concentrated bleach and vinegar directly.
For brewing use, both are added separately into plenty of water. Mixing them directly in concentrated form can produce dangerous chlorine gas. If you are unsure, use a no-rinse sanitizer instead.
WORKING BLEACH RECIPE FOR BREWING EQUIPMENT
(Using typical 5% household bleach)
1 ounce bleach in 5 gallons of water = about 80 ppm chlorine
Add 1 ounce white vinegar to the diluted solution
This concentration provides effective sanitation.
Contact time: about 30 seconds
Rinsing: not required at this strength (optional)
If you choose to rinse, remember that tap water may introduce microorganisms, which is why many brewers prefer no-rinse sanitizers.
CLEANING VS. SANITIZING
Charlie stresses that “sanitation is 90% cleaning.”
If your equipment is not completely clean, sanitizer cannot reliably save it. Scrubbing, removing film, and paying attention to detail are far more important than which sanitizer you choose.
Sanitize right before use. Do not sanitize equipment and then leave it sitting for days or weeks. Clean first, store clean, and sanitize immediately before brewing or packaging.
OVEN STERILIZING BOTTLES
Dry heat sterilization does work if done correctly.
Place bottles in a cold oven
Heat to 350°F (177°C) and hold for 3.5 hours
Turn off the oven and let everything cool inside
This gives effective sterilization. Bottles stay reliably sterile for about one month if kept covered with foil.
WHY STAR SAN WAS CREATED
Star San was developed as a response to iodophor sanitizers used on dairy farms. Charlie wanted a sanitizer that:
• Works in the presence of organic material
• Has broad killing power
• Provides some cleaning action
• Is safe and easy to use
Star San is an acid anionic detergent sanitizer. The acid alone does not kill well. The surfactant alone does not kill well. Together, in the right ratio, they are extremely effective against bacteria, yeast, mold, and even spores.
DON’T FEAR THE FOAM
Many homebrewers are concerned about Star San foam. Charlie designed Star San using ingredients that are food-grade or Generally Recognized As Safe. At working dilution (1 ounce per gallon of water), the foam is harmless.
Residual foam does not harm yeast. In fact, when Star San becomes more diluted and its pH rises, the residues can act as nutrients and help start fermentation more strongly. This is the origin of the famous advice: “Don’t fear the foam.”
REUSING STAR SAN SOLUTION
EPA rules require sanitizing solutions to be made fresh each time. However, in practical brewing use:
A Star San solution made with distilled or deionized water can remain active for months.
A solution made with hard water will turn cloudy over time as minerals react with Star San.
Signs a Star San solution is still good:
• pH around 3.0
• The solution remains clear
Once it becomes cloudy, it is time to replace it.
If your sanitizer gets visibly dirty with debris or trub, that usually means your cleaning step needs improvement.
KEY TAKEAWAYS FROM CHARLIE TALLEY
• Cleaning is the real foundation—sanitizing is insurance.
• Bleach can be a very effective brewing sanitizer if used safely and correctly.
• Never mix concentrated bleach and vinegar directly.
• Cheap, unscented bleach is usually better for brewing sanitation.
• Use bleach at 1 ounce per 5 gallons, plus 1 ounce of vinegar added separately into the water.
• Sanitize immediately before use.
• Star San is highly effective, widely safe, and yeast-friendly.
• Don’t fear the foam.
• Star San mixed with distilled water can last months if kept clear and around pH 3.
Used properly, both bleach and Star San can help produce consistently clean, infection-free beer. The real secret is understanding how they work, and cleaning thoroughly.