BLEACH, STAR SAN, AND THE TRUTH ABOUT SANITIZING YOUR HOMEBREW
An Interview with Charlie Talley of Five Star Chemicals
Sanitation can make or break your homebrew. In this interview, Charlie Talley, founder of Five Star Chemicals and inventor of Star San, shares decades of experience, explains how bleach really works, and clears up common myths about sanitizers in brewing.
WHO IS CHARLIE TALLEY?
Charlie has been in the chemical specialty industry since 1968 and worked as a chemist for Penwalt Chemical, a major manufacturer of bleach and chlor-alkali products. He developed the formula that would become Star San in 1971 and introduced it to homebrewers in the early 1990s. He has deep experience with both bleach and modern sanitizers.
BLEACH AS A BREWING SANITIZER
Bleach (sodium hypochlorite) is one of the oldest sanitizers available. The EPA even bases many germ-killing tests on chlorine. Many homebrewers avoid bleach because of bad experiences, but Charlie emphasizes that bleach can be very effective if it is used correctly, especially when it comes to pH.
WHY pH MATTERS WITH BLEACH
Household bleach is usually too alkaline (too high in pH) to kill effectively. Manufacturers add sodium hydroxide to stabilize bleach on the shelf, but that high pH prevents the formation of hypochlorous acid, the compound that does the actual killing. Lowering the pH makes bleach far more effective.
IMPORTANT SAFETY WARNING: BLEACH + VINEGAR
Never mix concentrated bleach and vinegar directly.
For brewing use, both are added separately into plenty of water. Mixing them directly in concentrated form can produce dangerous chlorine gas. If you are unsure, use a no-rinse sanitizer instead.
WORKING BLEACH RECIPE FOR BREWING EQUIPMENT
(Using typical 5% household bleach)
1 ounce bleach in 5 gallons of water = about 80 ppm chlorine
Add 1 ounce white vinegar to the diluted solution
This concentration provides effective sanitation.
Contact time: about 30 seconds
Rinsing: not required at this strength (optional)
If you choose to rinse, remember that tap water may introduce microorganisms, which is why many brewers prefer no-rinse sanitizers.
CLEANING VS. SANITIZING
Charlie stresses that “sanitation is 90% cleaning.”
If your equipment is not completely clean, sanitizer cannot reliably save it. Scrubbing, removing film, and paying attention to detail are far more important than which sanitizer you choose.
Sanitize right before use. Do not sanitize equipment and then leave it sitting for days or weeks. Clean first, store clean, and sanitize immediately before brewing or packaging.
OVEN STERILIZING BOTTLES
Dry heat sterilization does work if done correctly.
Place bottles in a cold oven
Heat to 350°F (177°C) and hold for 3.5 hours
Turn off the oven and let everything cool inside
This gives effective sterilization. Bottles stay reliably sterile for about one month if kept covered with foil.
WHY STAR SAN WAS CREATED
Star San was developed as a response to iodophor sanitizers used on dairy farms. Charlie wanted a sanitizer that:
• Works in the presence of organic material
• Has broad killing power
• Provides some cleaning action
• Is safe and easy to use
Star San is an acid anionic detergent sanitizer. The acid alone does not kill well. The surfactant alone does not kill well. Together, in the right ratio, they are extremely effective against bacteria, yeast, mold, and even spores.
DON’T FEAR THE FOAM
Many homebrewers are concerned about Star San foam. Charlie designed Star San using ingredients that are food-grade or Generally Recognized As Safe. At working dilution (1 ounce per gallon of water), the foam is harmless.
Residual foam does not harm yeast. In fact, when Star San becomes more diluted and its pH rises, the residues can act as nutrients and help start fermentation more strongly. This is the origin of the famous advice: “Don’t fear the foam.”
REUSING STAR SAN SOLUTION
EPA rules require sanitizing solutions to be made fresh each time. However, in practical brewing use:
A Star San solution made with distilled or deionized water can remain active for months.
A solution made with hard water will turn cloudy over time as minerals react with Star San.
Signs a Star San solution is still good:
• pH around 3.0
• The solution remains clear
Once it becomes cloudy, it is time to replace it.
If your sanitizer gets visibly dirty with debris or trub, that usually means your cleaning step needs improvement.
KEY TAKEAWAYS FROM CHARLIE TALLEY
• Cleaning is the real foundation—sanitizing is insurance.
• Bleach can be a very effective brewing sanitizer if used safely and correctly.
• Never mix concentrated bleach and vinegar directly.
• Cheap, unscented bleach is usually better for brewing sanitation.
• Use bleach at 1 ounce per 5 gallons, plus 1 ounce of vinegar added separately into the water.
• Sanitize immediately before use.
• Star San is highly effective, widely safe, and yeast-friendly.
• Don’t fear the foam.
• Star San mixed with distilled water can last months if kept clear and around pH 3.
Used properly, both bleach and Star San can help produce consistently clean, infection-free beer. The real secret is understanding how they work, and cleaning thoroughly.